{"id":129,"date":"2007-05-10T06:55:20","date_gmt":"2007-05-10T06:55:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/2007\/05\/10\/leaving-fatu-hiva\/"},"modified":"2025-10-01T17:03:13","modified_gmt":"2025-10-01T17:03:13","slug":"leaving-fatu-hiva","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/?p=129","title":{"rendered":"Leaving Fatu Hiva"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Position: 09.54 south, 139.06 west<\/p>\n<p>It is Wednesday, and we left beautiful Fatu Hiva this morning<br \/>\nfor the 48 mile sail to the island of Tahuata. It was a<br \/>\nbeautiful seven hour sail and now we are safely anchored in<br \/>\nfront of a white sand beach. There are 6 boats in the anchorage<br \/>\nand we know all of them. It is extremely pretty although not<br \/>\nas magnificent as Fatu Hiva. We hope we will get to an internet<br \/>\ncafe soon to post some pictures, but it is pretty clear that we<br \/>\nwon&#8217;t find one on this island. We wanted to go for a swim, but<br \/>\njust noticed that there are some jellyfish, so we are chickening<br \/>\nout. Hopefully tomorrow they will be gone.<\/p>\n<p>On Monday we were invited by our friends Karin and<br \/>\nJean-Francoise (on the catamaran Intiaq) to go by dinghy to the<br \/>\nneighboring town of Omoa. That is the &#8220;big town&#8221; on the island<br \/>\nof Fatu Hiva, where most of the island&#8217;s 640 inhabitants live.<br \/>\nTo get there you can walk for 5 hours up a steep volcanic<br \/>\nmountain and down the other side, or take half hour dinghy ride<br \/>\nalong the coastline. We opted for the dinghy ride. We each<br \/>\nrode in our own dinghy since the town is still 3 miles away by<br \/>\nsea, and it is safer to have two dinghies out together in case<br \/>\nsomeone&#8217;s engine fails. We followed the beautiful, steeply<br \/>\npitched shoreline, stopping to look at caves and little inlets<br \/>\nalong the way. It really is the most beautiful shoreline you<br \/>\ncan imagine. There were fishermen standing along the cliff<br \/>\nbeside the dinghy dock at the town of Omoa. Well, it was not<br \/>\nexactly a dinghy dock. Rather, they have a line stretched out<br \/>\nfrom the rocky cliffs with a mooring ball tied out to sea about<br \/>\n50 yards. You have to tie your dinghy to the line, and then<br \/>\nsomehow get up the steep sea-wall steps. Luckily for us, the<br \/>\nfishermen were extremely helpful, and they hopped first into<br \/>\nJean-Francoise&#8217; dinghy, and then ours to assist us with the<br \/>\nvery tricky process. Our friends Karin and Jean-Francoise are<br \/>\nnative French speakers, and are just incredibly charming people.<br \/>\nAs we walked through the town they made conversation with<br \/>\npretty much everyone we met\u00a0 making it a point to stop and talk<br \/>\nto anyone with fruit trees. By the end of the walk we had been<br \/>\ngiven about 20 huge pamplemousse and had been invited to pick as<br \/>\nmany of the carambolla (starfruit) as we wanted from someone&#8217;s<br \/>\ntree. We had also been invited to come back the next day for<br \/>\nstalks of bananas if we wished. There was a very nicely<br \/>\nstocked store in town (relatively speaking), and we picked up<br \/>\nsandwich fixings, and then knocked on the door of another store,<br \/>\nwhich was closed for lunch, but which opened up to sell us a<br \/>\ncouple of baguettes. We walked up the beautiful road and found<br \/>\na nice place to sit and have a picnic lunch. After a few minutes<br \/>\nwe noticed a strange smell and then realized we were sitting<br \/>\njust about 15 feet from a pig pen. When we got back to the dock<br \/>\nlater in the afternoon we found that the fisherman had retied<br \/>\nthe dinghies so that it was very easy for us to get back into<br \/>\nthem and head for home. Very nice.<br \/>\nThat evening it poured torrentially , but when there was a small<br \/>\nbreak we headed over to Intiaq for dinner. Karin is a gourmet<br \/>\ncook and she had prepared a beautiful meal for us complete with<br \/>\nhuge servings of freshly made poisson cru, mango and grapefruit<br \/>\ncompote and several wines and liquors. The main course was odd,<br \/>\nbut very good. It was barbecued goat ribs. Almost every day<br \/>\nsomeone from the village comes by their boat to give them a<br \/>\ngift, and that day it was the goat. I am not sure if I should be<br \/>\nhappy or sad that no one comes to our boat.<br \/>\nYesterday was much lower key\u00a0. Mark and I just did boat work _he put together the big spare anchor while I mopped up one of<br \/>\nour storage lockers into which at least a half dozen cans of<br \/>\ncoke and another half dozen cans of Fresca had leaked during our<br \/>\ntrip. We hadn&#8217;t realized the extent of the mess until<br \/>\nyesterday, and it took a few hours to clean all the fermenting<br \/>\nsweet soda up. Not too much fun. We just made a quick trip into<br \/>\nthe town (Hanavave) to try the pay phone\u00a0 and called Hannah.<br \/>\nThe $20 phone card got chewed up in about 8 minutes, so I guess<br \/>\nwe will stick to the satellite phone, which isn&#8217;t any more<br \/>\nexpensive, until we get to another island with better phone<br \/>\nservice.<br \/>\nL.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Position: 09.54 south, 139.06 west It is Wednesday, and we left beautiful Fatu Hiva this morning for the 48 mile sail to the island of Tahuata. It was a beautiful seven hour sail and now we are safely anchored in front of a white sand beach. There are 6 boats in the anchorage and we &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/?p=129\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Leaving Fatu Hiva&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[24,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-129","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-south-pacific-the-marquesastuomotussocieties-and-cooks-2007","category-other"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=129"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=129"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=129"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sabbatical3.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=129"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}