![\"Tom](\"http:\/\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2355\/2212388235_b4785ba6d1_m.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nThe island is a national park and nature reserve, and the
\ncaretakers (park wardens) for the past three years are John and
\nVeronica and their four young boys ages 4 to 9. They come here
\nfrom Raratonga in April and leave about November 1. When they
\nare dropped off in April they are on their own until the
\nNovember pick-up.<\/p>\n
There are no facilities and the only way to Laura and I are enjoying our stay here immensely. We swam The water is crystal clear and the coral is beautiful and![\"John](\"http:\/\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2298\/2214993374_4984a24068.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n
\nget here is on your own boat. This is now the peak of the
\nyachtie season as sail boats make their way west from French
\nPolynesia to Tonga and then eventually to New Zealand or
\nAustralia for the typhoon season. Most boats take the southern
\nroute through the Southern Cooks but the charms of Suvarov and
\nSamoa, plus the vagaries of the weather, lead an increasing
\nnumber to come through here. Most nights there is a fire on the
\nbeach and a potluck in which John and Veronica participate.
\nVeronica makes wonderful coconut pancakes. The yachties also
\ngive John and Veronica whatever fresh food and gasoline that
\nthey can spare. We gave them frozen hamburger that they seemed
\ndelighted to receive. John and Veronica go out of their way to
\nbe helpful to their visitors, offering advice on places to
\nsnorkel and best times to exit through the pass back to the sea,
\nleading trips to the other islands in the atoll, and just being
\ngracious hosts.<\/p>\n
\nwith the sharks yesterday — there is really no choice since
\nthey are everywhere, we see them swimming around the boat.
\nThere was this big black-tipped shark circling around us but he
\nnever got closer than 20 feet. I have some great video of him
\n(with a nice toothy smile). Unless one has not just speared a
\nfish, these sharks have no interest in humans. Needless to say,
\nwe are not spearfishing.<\/p>\n![\"Black](\"http:\/\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2071\/2213046042_f680053e28.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n
\nhealthy. That is what one should expect in an uninhabited atoll
\nwith no other islands around for a few hundred miles, I suppose.
\nThere are lots of grouper and other large fish in the lagoon,
\nnot just the cute little tropical guys. We stayed up late to
\nwatch the eclipse of the moon last night which was spectacular
\nhere. The closest town (Pago-Pago) is about 500 miles away so
\nambient light is not a problem. We are a bit closer to the
\nequator than Bora-Bora but it is still noticeably warmer than
\nanywhere since Panama. The water is like a bath. Fortunately,
\nit has been quite breezy so we are comfortable.<\/p>\n