Just a quiet day on the boat

June 30, 2008

We had “Italian food night” on Sabbatical III last night. The Vera’s brought antipasto and wine and we provided pasta and meat sauce. Rain arrived just as the Vera’s were leaving at 9 pm and continued for some hours. It conveniently washed the salt and schmutz off the deck, but it was a bit warm and sticky in our cabin with the hatches and ports closed. This morning it cleared and a nice cool breeze blew in from the southeast. We had a great snorkel on the nearby reefs which are teeming with fish. This place suits us fine and we and Vera have decided to stay here (Land Harbour) for a few more days.


Blue Lagoon to Land Harbour

June 29, 2008 Position:

South 16 degrees 49 minutes

East 177 degrees 27 minutes

Hard to believe June is almost over. We ended up staying 4 nights in Blue Lagoon. It was very comfortable there (no ocean swell to keep us up at night) with nice views and good snorkeling. Big excitement yesterday was finding a large reddish colored octopus on the reef where we were snorkeling. He (she?) was not more than 5 feet below us and was quite large. He saw us and blinked a lot, and then instead of hiding like they usually do, he decided to show off a bit and proceeded to slink in and out of little crags in the coral, spread out its arms, turned upside down, did some amazing camouflaging (it went from being reddish purple to looking exactly like the reef, complete with bumps and fissures right before our eyes), and played a little with a huge grouper that was nestled in next to him. Very cool.

We decided it was time to get away from the cruise ships that come into Blue Lagoon every day so today we headed north to another anchorage. We are still traveling in tandem with our friends on Vera. Our new anchorage is on Yasawa Island and is called Land Harbour and it is the farthest north in the Yasawa Island chain that we will be going.

It was only a 12 mile sail (motor actually) – but right in the middle of it we had to traverse an area that was exceptionally shallow. As with most of the waters around here, it was not accurately charted for depth so we had been proceeding cautiously, but still it is always scary to suddenly see the coral heads right under you – with just a few feet of water between the bottom of your boat and the coral. We managed to make it through, but not without getting our fishing line snagged on coral and losing the fishing yo-yo (holds the fishing line) and a couple hundred feet of fishing line and a good lure. Oh, well – certainly could have been worse.

In a few days we will be heading back to Lautoka (about 50 miles south-east of here) and check out to begin our trip to Vanuatu.


LikuLiku Bay, Fiji

Friday June 27, 2008
LikuLiku Bay, Fiji

We have been in contact with some of our friends who did not leave New Zealand when we did because they were were either not ready yet, or were not comfortable with the weather forecast for that week (which was really very good).  Hard to believe, but one month later only one of the 20 or more boats waiting in New Zealand has been able to leave to make the passage up to Fiji or Vanuatu(and that boat apparently had a terribly difficult passage). There has just been one storm system after another between New Zealand and here – so if we had not left when we did we would still be in New Zealand – one month later!  We knew that it was hard to find a good weather window for the crossing, but this is even stranger than we had expected. We would have been so frustrated by now.

We are currently anchored outside the Blue Lagoon Resort in the Yasawa Island Group of Fiji. Blue Lagoon is a wonderfully protected anchorage surrounded by several relatively small islands (Matacawa Levu, Nanuya Levu, Nanuya Lailai, and Tavewa Islands in case you were interested).  It is named after the Brooke Shields movie which was shot here in 1980.  Each island has one or two resorts on them, but we have not gone to any of them yet. There is one resort that is very  exclusive (Turtle Island Resort) and costs about $5,000 a night. We are not allowed to go onshore there – but, we don’t feel the need to.  We actually have a more beautiful view from the boat than any of the resorts have.

Three days ago we left Navadra Island for Likuliku Bay of Waya Island. We did the passage to Waya Island with “Vera”, but without “Wombat of Sydney”, who had to return to the big town of Lautoka to fix their generator. We have had to motor between anchorages most of the time in Fiji rather than sail because there are so many uncharted reefs around. It is much easier to avoid hitting a reef if you are motoring and don’t have to mess around with sails. Too bad, as it is in theory a wonderful place to sail. It is just a little too hair-raising to know that you can be sailing along in 60 meters of water one minute and up against a 2 foot deep reef the next. The charts for Fiji are only partially accurate – and with this type of adventure you need perfect accuracy. So all of our “sails” are done with the engine on and Laura sitting high up on the mast to look out for reefs as Mark steers.

The anchorage at Likuliku Bay looked exactly like a picture perfect postcard of what Fiji should look like. When we pulled in there were 6 other boats in the anchorage (which is a lot around here) the water was calm and clear and wonderful.  Plus, the Octopus Resort was on the shore with a bar and restaurant.  The Australian manager of the the resort was extremely hospitable. After a beach walk with Michael and Britta and some Fiji Bitter beer, we enjoyed a delicious and plentiful Indo-Fijian curry supper at the resort.  After dinner, it was a bit hair-raising to get the dinghies off the beach and through the shallow reef to get back to our boats in the dark as there was suddenly some surf running.  As we neared Sabbatical III we could see that she was rolling back and forth like a pendulum.  During the three hours we were on shore, the ocean swell had found it’s way into Likuliku Bay.  It was not a good night as the swell was constant and large.  Everything loose on the boat rattled and we nearly had to hang on to our berths while trying to sleep. When we peeked our heads out in the morning, we saw that all the boats were leaving and “Vera” called us on the VHF suggesting we leave in 15 minutes. Surf was crashing on the reef behind us and rollers were breaking on the beach where the evening before we had landed our dinghy with ease.  These were conditions for surfers, not boats at anchor.

Leaving Likuliku Bay in the morning is not advisable since the sun is in your eyes when looking for coral reefs, but with a swell like this we all just wanted to leave.  We headed for Drawaqa (yes, no ‘u’ after the ‘q’) Island which seemed well positioned to have smoother waters.  A two and one-half hour sail brought us into another pretty bay but without a good place to anchor.  We headed north to a bay at the south end of Naviti Island but it was also too exposed to ocean swell.  We were tired and hot but decided to stop wasting time looking at other nearby bays and instead headed for the one place that we knew was protected, Blue Lagoon, more than three hours away.

We arrived sunned-out at Blue Lagoon at 3 pm and promptly took naps.  There is no roll in Blue Lagoon, and like the rest of the Yasawa Islands, it is very beautiful.  There is good snorkeling, gorgeaus views in all directions from the lagoon,plus long sand beaches for walking.

Our position is

South 16 degrees 56.6 minutes
East 177 degrees 22.0 minutes

Love, L and M

Navadra Island, Fiji

June 23, 2008

Navadra Island, Fij

We are still anchored off Navadra Island.  This place is too special to leave quickly.  The coral reef here is perhaps the best we have seen except for Suvarov.  There are not many large fish but the coral makes up for that.Yesterday afternoon, Wombat of Sydney anchored here as well. They went hard aground a few miles out and were lucky to have a Fijian power boat come by and pull them off.  Last night, we had Vera and Wombat over for a supper of opur ayam (Indonesian chicken curry).

We will stay here today but will almost certainly leave tomorrow for the southern Yasawa Islands.


Navadra: satellite view

Fiji – the Mamanucas

Navadra Anchorage
June 21, 2008 (UTC + 12)

We spent six nights at Musket Cove on Malolo Lailai Island. It is a very comfortable place to spend time. The weather improved and we experienced clear skies every day after that stormy first day. At Musket Cove we socialized and snorkeled with Vera (Michael and Britta), Wombat of Sydney (Mike and Lynn), Horizon (Ray and Marilyn), and a few other boats.

We became “life members” of the Musket Cove Yacht Club which gave us the right to use the facilities of the resort. Laura swam in the pool, we ate some meals in the restaurant, shopped in the grocery store, and snorkeled. At low tide, a long sand bar would stick out from the water about one mile from where we were moored. Off of that sandy island, there is a beautiful and vibrant reef with fish in such abundance that it seemed like there were traffic jams of fish getting around coral heads. Some of the fish are varieties that we never saw before. The fish are very unafraid of humans because when the boats full of resort guests come out for a snorkel the guides feed the fish so the tourists get their money’s worth. We often took our dinghy to this reef just before noon. During the lunch hour, the resort guests are back at the resort standing in buffet lines, so the reef is less crowded.

Yesterday (June 20), Sabbatical III and Vera headed out for the western Mamanuca Islands. Our first destination was Monuriki Island, which along with the nearby Monu Island, was the setting for the Castaway movie starring Tom Hanks. The problem with sailing in the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands is that there are no good nautical charts. We bought the “Lautoka to Yasawa Islands” (F5) chart from the Fiji Hydographic Office, but this marks only those reefs that are visible from aerial photography. For much of the chart there are no depths noted. These waters are strewn with uncharted reefs and rocks and so the passage required constant attention. Laura sat up on the whisker pole about 15 feet above the water and scanned the clear blue water for color changes or other indications of depth changes. We wound our way through reefs into what we thought was deep water, and Laura got off of her perch to get out of the hot sun. It was a cloudless day. Of course, as soon as she got down, the depth sounder went from 65 meters under the keel to 2 meters. We were over a reef in water so clear we could make out the detail of the coral fans and fish. Fortunately, we turned around and made our way off the reef without touching bottom. Vera was 100 meters behind us so our sudden speed and course change, plus a radio call, alerted them to the danger. It was slow going the rest of the way to Monuriki Island. As we pulled up to Tom Hank’s beach, a schooner full of tourists was dropping anchoring and disgorging people ashore. They schooner sent a long boat out to us to tell us that they had exclusive rights to the island, granted by the chief on Yanuya Island. We could not go ashore until they left and even then we needed to visit the chief and obtain permission. Yanuya Island was a bit of a schlep from Monuriki, plus the anchoring depths and holding were only marginal, so we decided to proceed with Plan B, the anchorage at Navadra Island, about two hours away. This time Vera took the lead and we followed, allowing Laura to stay out of the sun.

The Navadra Island anchorage is very beautiful. Protected from the south and east by Vanua Levu Island and from the north and east by Navadra Island. Although these islands are uninhabited, every bit of Fiji “belongs” to a clan headed by a chief. This includes the reef, fish, beach, and water. These particular islands are uninhabited due to a lack of fresh water, but a fishing boat from the village on another island that owns them came by and asked us to perform sevusevu at the cave on the island. This entails leaving an offering of kava root, which we did (we brought 6 bundles of kava with us just for this purpose). The root is made into a drink that is mildly euphoric and intoxicating. The Veras also filled a water jug for the fisherman. We had a nice supper on Vera and watched an almost full moon rise. Sabbatical III and Vera are the only boats here.

We will spend the day here snorkeling and exploring. Tomorrow we will probably head northeast to the Yasawa Islands. The weather forecast looks very good for the next three days, after which the winds and seas will pick up. We plan to be in the Blue Lagoon of Matacawa Levu Island when that happens.


Safe arrival in Fiji

We are safely at anchor in Momi Bay on the island of Viti Levu,
Fiji. About 7 hours ago we transited Navula Pass through the
fringing reef that protects the west side of this large island.
Momi Bay is just opposite the pass. After a quick lunch we napped
all afternoon. We woke up at 6 pm (NZT) just in time to help
guide Vera and Wombat of Sydney via radio through the passage and
into this bay in the dark. They are now anchored just next to us.

The last 36 hours of our trip here was characterized by
gradually increasing wind and seas. For the last few hours we had
wind consistently above 30 knots and often above 35 knots, and
very large seas. The large waves were moving pretty much in the
direction we were so they were not too much of a problem, although
they would occasionally make the boat round up or give the
cockpit a good dousing. With all of this wind, we arrived at the
pass just at noon, earlier than we thought, and thus had plenty of
light with which to navigate.

Tomorrow morning we will head up to the city of Lautoka to do
the formal check-in. It is about 20 miles north of here and the
trip is entirely within the reef.

There is certainly no one left at Minerva Reef. The day that
we left, the GRIB files forecast a very nasty “squash” zone
centered on Minerva starting tonight. An unusually high high
pressure area was moving close to a low coming down from Fiji to
create a zone of 20 foot seas and 45 knot winds. There was no
choice but to leave Minerva well before these conditions were
felt. We even got two emailed warnings about this squash zone
from friends who were worried that we might not be looking at the
new GRIBs. We always look at the GRIBs even while at anchor just
to avoid surprises.

The passage here was pretty comfortable even though there was
too little wind to start and too much at the end. The only
problem was the result of an ill-conceived late night gybe in
gusty winds that broke the spliced loop on the main sail outhaul.
An hour later we had the outhaul repaired and the main sail
back in action.

The nights were quite clear and the stargazing spectacular
during the passage. Both of us saw the largest shootest star we
had ever seen. We are not really sure that it was a shooting star
since it was seemingly so close and was green, red, and gold with
a sparkling tail. I though that it might be a distress flare and
scanned the sea with a flood light. But it had to come from space
given its trajectory and speed.

It’s back to bed for us. The three hour nap only made us long
even more for a long stretch of undisturbed sleep.


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Less than a day to go

Position: 14:10 NZT or 02:10 UTC
Tuesday June 10th
South 19.02.3
East 177.50.8

We should be in Fiji by sunset on Wednesday. The winds we have
been expecting have not arrived yet so we have done way more
motoring than we had wanted to. With the cost of diesel fuel we
might have flown to Fiji cheaper. Oh well, what fun would that be?
Vera, left Minerva about 15 hours after we did, and we have been
in contact with them via our satellite phone. The say they have
good winds now and we hope the winds will catch up to us very soon.

End of first day on passage to Fiji

It is about 22 hours since we left Minerva Reef. Winds are
about 8-10 knots out of the east with a small to moderate swell.
We are making only 5 knots. The wind is expected to build over
the next 24 hours so our speed should as well. There is a bright
blue sky with patchy clouds and some distant small squalls.
Our position as of 13:50 NZT June 9 (0150 UTC) is:

S22 degrees 05.5 minutes
E179 degrees 40.4 minutes


Leaving for Fiji

It’s 2:00 P.M. Sunday here on Minerva Reef and we plan to leave in
a few hours for Fiji. It should take us 2.5 days. Weather forecast
is for very light winds for the next 24 hours followed by winds of
15 knots the next day, 20 the following day, and then a big low
pressure system with winds of 30 knots or more will be coming. We
should be safely anchored in Fiji a full day before the 30 knots

Thursday and Friday at Minerva reef were very windy – too windy to
go out and walk on the reef – but not too windy to have a good
time socializing with our friends on “Vera” and “Wombat of
Sydney”. We are all anchored a couple of hundred feet away from
each other so it is easy to hop in your dinghy and get to the next
boat. It was so windy we never felt inclined to get our own
dinghy off the deck of the boat (where we carry it on long
passages) and into the water, so we bummed rides from our friends
whenever necessary.

Yesterday, Saturday, the winds died down a bit and Mike from
“Wombat of Sydney” wanted to go lobstering. We all went on his
boat (a 47 foot Beneteau First) and he pulled up his anchor and we
motored over to the other side of the lagoon (just 2 miles away).
We pulled two dinghies behind us. Once he had securely anchored
on the other side we all hopped into the dinghies – in our
wetsuits and reef shoes and gloves – and with Mike carrying his
harpoon and his wife Lynn carrying buckets for the captured
lobsters. We dinghied over to the reef which, although it was low
tide, still had quite a bit of water on it, and we had to wade up
and down little heads of coral to cross over to the ocean side.
Then, following Mike, we looked for deep holes in the reef.
Apparently the lobsters like to hang out in those holes and Mike
is experienced at hopping into them and feeling around for the
spiny creatures and then yanking them out. He has done it many
times in dozens of places, and even caught a dozen or so just the
other day. Unfortunately he did not catch any yesterday. It was
an interesting experience though. Mark and Michael were at his
side, but not particularly keen on leaping into the holes, and the
three women were lagging 1/2 a kilometer behind, happier picking
up shells and looking at little colorful bits of coral than
struggling with the crustaceans. Just as we gave up and started
heading back to the dinghies to return to his boat, some very dark
and threatening looking thunderclouds started forming on the
horizon. We quickly made it back to our respective boats and
within an hour we had torrential rain and sheets of lighting all
around us. It was pretty scary. By 9:00 p.m. it had all passed
by and it was a brilliant, calm, starry night.

Dinner was not lobster – but chicken curry!


Not much news from Minerva

The weather is kind of unpleasant today – too windy to do anything – we don’t even want to go to the reef for our little daily walk. When the sea is up, as it is now, the ocean waves come over the submerged reef at high tide and make the boat roll uncomfortably. It feels like we are at sea. At low tide it is much calmer as the three feet of exposed reef protects the lagoon from most of the ocean swell.

Sunset over Minerva Reef
Looking over reef to the lagoon.
Looking over reef to the lagoon.

We are still here with Vera and now 3 other boats. Last night we made bratwurst and potatoes and took out pita chips and delicious hummous and drank wine with Vera on our boat and watched “Winged Migration” – very nice. Pretty amazing what you can do smack dab in the middle of the ocean as long as you have a well equipped boat.We had a problem with our generator and Mark called “Vera” on the VHF to ask if they had material to make a new gasket. Within 1 minute two other boats called us (because they heard us on the VHF
as well) to offer their assistance. Within 15 minutes we had another sailer on board with the material we needed to make the repair and he waited with us to make sure everything was working right. Just love that part of the sailing community – everyone helps everyone. The boat is kind of bouncing around in the anchorage today. The wind should die down by tomorrow we hope, and the weather should be suitable to leave for Fiji on the 9th.

Mark in his wetsuit
Mark in his wetsuit


Laura wades ashore at Minerva Reef
Laura in her wetsuit on Wombat of Sydney
Laura in her wetsuit on "Wombat of Sydney"
Lagoon edge of Minerva Reef
Lagoon edge of Minerva Reef
Mike from "Wombat of Sydney" steers his boat closer to the reef for late afternoon lobstering
Mike from Wombat steers his boat closer to the reef for late afternoon lobstering
Fissures in the reef where lobsters hide
Fissures in the reef where lobsters hide
Squall approaches Minerva Reef
Squall approaches Minerva Reef

Safe arrival in Minerva

Current position:
S 23 degrees 39 minutes
W 178 degrees 54 minutes

We arrived at Minerva Reef this morning – 8:30 a.m. local time.  We had another beautiful day sailing yesterday – a few hours with some steep swell, and lots of wind (20 – 25 knots). By sunset everything calmed down a lot and we had an absolutely magnificent sail all night. We had to reef the sails so we would not go too fast – we didn’t want to arrive at Minerva before sunrise. About 5 miles before reaching the atoll we could the masts of three sailboats who were all inside the lagoon. All you can see of the reef as you approach are a few spots where there are waves crashing and a few rocks sticking out.

Minerva Reef is an amazing phenomenon. You really have to look up the coordinates on google earth to see where we are. The atoll is a doughnut shaped circle of coral with a lagoon inside. It is about 2.3 miles in diameter (about 6.5 miles around.) There is just a very pass at the western end of the circle that you can sail into. All around us the seas are 7,000 – 12,000 feet deep, but once you are in the lagoon, the depths are only about 50 to 60 feet with a sandy bottom that you can anchor in. At high tide the reef is completely under water. At low tide the reef emerges several feet above sea-level and you can take your dinghy over to the edge and walk on it. It is breathtaking. At low tide the reef is about 200 meters across as you walk from the lagoon side to the ocean side. Water from the ocean side continues to flow over the exposed reef even at low tide so as you walk you feel like you are walking on a horizontal waterfall. The water at the lagoon edge of the reef is turquoise blue and filled with fish.When we arrived our friends from Vera immediately hopped in their dinghy and came over for breakfast. We spent a few hours catching up on all that has happened to them (and us) since we last saw them. They were the ones who continued on to Minerva when we turned back to New Zealand 2.5 weeks ago – and on route they had their autopilot fail which made it a challenging trip. They have been here for 2 weeks already – a very long time to be at Minerva Reef, but amazingly enough they had their very good friends from Roxi here with them for several days – then just 2 nights here alone – and now we are together with them. The other two boats in the anchorage – “Key of D” and “Wombat of  Sydney” made the sail with us from Opua this week – but arrived a whole day earlier than us. Mike from Wombat of Sydney plans to go night snorkeling and hopes to catch lobsters for us all to share tomorrow.

It was a beautiful day – sunny and pleasantly warm. Tonight we are planning to have dinner on the boat with Vera and then crash very early.

All in all a very successful and pleasant passage.


Minerva Reef: satellite photo

Day 6 at sea

June 2, 2008
0300 UTC (3:00 P.M. in New Zealand)
Position: S 25 degrees 2 minutes West 179 degrees 15 minutes
Heading 10 degrees at 6-7 knots
100 miles to Minerva

Yep, if you have been looking at our longitudes and latitudes over
the past week you will see that we have passed from the eastern
hemisphere to the western – crossing the date line last night at
10:30 P.M. ( so I guess it suddenly became yesterday). We will
only be in the western hemisphere for a few days while we are at
Minerva and then when we head back west a bit we will cross back
into the eastern hemisphere and our longitudes will show “east”
again. I am sure you are waiting with baited breath for that big

We have had another good 24 hours of sailing – with the winds
picking up and gusting strongly for extended periods at speeds of
20-24 knots at times. The seas are rougher today than they were
the past 5, but still not bad at all. Sun is out again today and
it is definitely feeling warm and almost tropical.

Last night I was listening to one of our audiobooks (a fantastic
addition for our night watches) – and made the mistake of
listening to “The Life of Pi”. I had read the book a few years
ago and loved it. I had forgotten however, that it is all about
shipwrecks and storms and sharks (not to mention hyenas and
tigers) and it got me totally freaked out. Couldn’t even sleep
afterwards. I was pretty convinced I was not going to be attacked
by a tiger, but otherwise, it seemed a little too realistic to me.

All is well. Should be arriving at North Minerva Reef (look it up
on Wikipedia) tomorrow early morning. We anticipate having a fun
reunion with Michael and Britta. We are bringing them lots of
fresh fruit and vegies as they have been there for 2 weeks already
and are all out of that kind of stuff.


Day 5 at sea

Things are still going very well out here in the middle of the
ocean. We really got lucky with the weather window – the winds
have now picked up nicely so we are cruising along at between 6
and 7.5 knots consistently. Seas still nice and gentle. Beautiful
sunsets and sunrises out here. Lots of shooting stars. The tiny
sliver of a moon rose last night at about 4:00 a.m. – bright
orange over the horizon and smiling just like the Cheshire cat.
This is really perfect sailing.

We should arrive in Minerva in less than 2 days. Will have to slow
down tomorrow so we arrive at the reef after sunrise.

S 27 19
E 179 34
COG: 15-20 degrees
Wind speed : 12-18 knots from the east
June 1 0300 UTC