Hannah and Adina visit Sabbatical III

Arriving on the boat at Kaş Marina
Arriving on the boat at Kaş Marina

Our daughter Hannah and her lovely Swiss friend, Adina, just spent a week with us. They arrived in Kaş on the 18th of June, just in time to celebrate our 36th wedding anniversary. The girls arrived in Istanbul on the 16th, having spent the previous week in Switzerland with Adina’s parents and after a quick preview of Istanbul, they flew to Antalya and then took the 4 hour bus ride to meet us at our boat in Kaş. We had the most wonderful week together, hiking, swimming, star-watching and sailing together. We spent the first 3 days of their trip at the marina in Kaş, partly because we love the town and wanted them to see it, and partly because the weather was not conducive to sailing for their first few days here. It was just too windy to take them out, particularly since Adina has not sailed before and we didn’t want her to be sea-sick. Fortunately, both of them love hiking, and Kaş is right on the Lycian Way, an ancient and now popular rock and olive tree strewn hiking trail that extends for some 509 kilometers along the coast of Turkey. After a morning swim in the ocean together everyday, we had amazing breakfasts onboard, with a huge assortment of delicious Turkish foods…. salty cheese, olives, tomatoes and cucumbers followed by delicious yogurt, honey, nuts, chocolate and good coffee. Our breakfasts were really extraordinary thanks to the easy availability of great markets in Kaş, and to Adina and Hannah’s enthusiasm for putting together plates with every delicious combination of ingredients that they could think of.

Celebration supper at Ratatouille Restaurant, Kaş
Celebration supper at Ratatouille Restaurant, Kaş

For our anniversary, and to celebrate the girl’s graduation from Harvard we all went out to “Ratatouille” an upscale restaurant considered by many people here to be the best in Kaş. While we had a beautiful meal, we ate the next night at the informal restaurant that Mark and I have been going to in Kaş for weeks, Enişte’nin Yeri, (we call it Einstein’s) and we all decided it was way better, much more fun, and with a much nicer setting (not to mention that it is also 1/3 the price). The girls liked it so much that they insisted on going again the next night. So much for fancy restaurants!

Kaş Marina swimming pool
Kaş Marina swimming pool

We had gale force winds on Friday, the day before we were scheduled to go sailing with them. The girls did the beautiful 2 hour hike from Kaş to the nearby bay of Liman Ağzı and got to experience the winds and waves from the safety of shore, while Mark and I stayed on the boat and listened to the wind howling and watch the docks sway back and forth. Maybe it is just that we have a new wind indicator on the boat that is actually working right for the first time, but the wind speeds of over 50 knots were about the highest we have ever seen on our boat. Luckily no boats at the marina were damaged.

Adina helps with breakfast
Adina helps with breakfast

We decided to sail over to Kekova the next day (Saturday) because the winds were much reduced and we wanted the girls to be able to experience sailing and anchoring out, rather than just staying at the marina for their whole trip. We probably should have waited one more day, because despite the much calmer winds, the seas were pretty rolly, and poor Adina was quite sea-sick for an hour or more. It is only a 3 hour sail from Kaş to Kekova, though, and after the first two hours things quieted down and she felt better and we actually had a marvelous sail. I think we may be passing out sea-sick pills to future guests before we set out.

Hannah at the weekly (Friday) market, Kaş
Hannah at the weekly (Friday) market, Kaş

We spent the next 2 days in the western-most anchorage of Kekova. It is called Polemos Buku and it is really lovely. There were only a few other sailboats there. It’s quiet and clean and very beautiful. It is also on the Lycian Way so we all were able to hike as well as swim while we were there. Mark and I would turn back after an hour or two of hiking while the girls continued hiking much farther. The best part of that anchorage is the little restaurant there… the Aperlai Restaurant. We had been there a few weeks before and couldn’t wait to show it to the girls. It is a very simple family run place with a very basic menu and you have to tell the owner what you want early in the day so he can take his motorboat into the nearby town to buy the ingredients. There are just a couple of tables, but the prime spot is just a single table set out over the water under a little canopy. They set it up with very nice table-ware and then bring out lots of delicious mezzes before the main course… way more than you think you can eat. It’s really an incredibly beautiful setting with delicious food and the owner and his wife and son and daughter are extremely nice. We love it.

View from the Lycian Trail
View from the Lycian Trail, Kekova

On Monday the girls did a long hike from our anchorage to the main (and only) town of Kekova, called Üçağız. While they were hiking, Mark and I sailed the boat over to the town and re-anchored. Then we dinghied over to town and met them for dinner. Mehmet, a friendly waiter at Ibrahim’s restaurant in town was really thrilled to have two beautiful young women at his restaurant and couldn’t have been more attentive. He gave the girls the name of a nice hotel in Capadoccia (their next destination in Turkey), that he works at in the winter and was helpful in getting them a reservation there, along with making arrangements for a taxi to come pick them up the next day to get them to the main road where they will pick up a bus to get them back to Antalya and onward to Capadoccia.

View from the Lycian Trail (Kaş(
View from the Lycian Trail (Kaş)

Tuesday was our last day together and we had one more lavish breakfast before doing a hike up to the medieval castle that sits above our anchorage at Kale Koy. Then one last swim and it was time for them to leave. Mehmet’s taxi driver came right on time, and the girls made it to Antalya on time to catch their overnight bus to Capadoccia.
We are already feeling lonely…
L.

Sarcophogus, Aperlae (Kekova(
Sarcophogus, Aperlae (Kekova)

 

Hannah and Adina at Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
Hannah and Adina at Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
After dinner at the Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
After dinner at the Aperlae Restaurant, Polemos Buku (Kekova)
Adina and scarf maker pose after purchase, Üçağız (Kekova)
Adina and scarf maker pose after purchase, Üçağız (Kekova)
At the top of Kaleköy (Kekova)
At the top of Kaleköy (Kekova)
Helpful waiter at Ibrihim's Restaurant, Üçağız (Kekova)
Helpful waiter at Ibrihim’s Restaurant, Üçağız (Kekova)
At the top of Kaleköy (Kekova)
At the top of Kaleköy (Kekova)
Lycian Trail, Kekova
Lycian Trail, Kekova

 

 

Göcek

View of Skopea Limani (Bay) from the trail to Ruin Bay (Göcek)
View of Skopea Limani (Bay) from the trail to Ruin Bay (Göcek)

We have returned from 8 days in Göcek (June 8 to June 16).  It was a good sail over in a moderate easterly.  After anchoring out in Göcek harbor the first night, we entered the Skopea Marina in order to get some work done on the boat by the crew at Emek Marine.  The biggest issue was a broken wind vane at the mast head that was stubbornly stuck in place. After a day of repairs, we sailed to Yassica Adalari Island for one night and the next day continued on to Sarsala Koyu bay in the Skopea Limani marine reserve where we were lucky enough to find a mooring.  The charter sailing season is in full swing and there are lots of boats around. Our friends Lynn and Dick from “Wind Pony” out of St. Paul, Minnesota (who we first met in Vanuatu 4 or 5 years ago) joined us and we had a good time hiking, swimming, and eating.  Very strong westerlies blew us back to Kaş.

M.

Goats get dropped off at the dock, Sarsala Koyu (Göcek)
Goats get dropped off at the dock, Sarsala Koyu (Göcek)

Kekova

Gökkaya Limani (Kekova)
Gökkaya Limani (Kekova)

We spent 10 days (May 20 – 30) in Kekova along with our friends Melinda and Dave of “Sassoon.”  Kekova Roads is the area between Kekova Island and the mainland in the eastern Aegean about 20 miles from Kaş,  The anchorages are protected and the water is clear, and there are no towns of size. We swam and hiked, ate meals together on our boats and at some small restaurants.  We sailed there on a westerly and returned on an easterly.  All in all a great trip.

Aperlai Restaurant, Polemos Bükü, Kekova
View from Aperlai Restaurant, Polemos Bükü, Kekova
Posing with the proprietor, Smugglers restaurant, Gökkaya (Kekova)
Posing with the proprietors, Smugglers restaurant, Gökkaya (Kekova)
Sarcophagus line the trail on the way up to the castle at Kaleköy, Kekova
Sarcophagus line the trail on the way up to the castle at Kaleköy, Kekova
View from the castle at Kaleköy, Kekova
View from the castle at Kaleköy, Kekova

M.