Saturday night, after our sail here from Guadeloupe, we were tired and went to bed early, something we commonly do on the boat. To our chagrin, “Big Poppa’s Bar and Restaurant” on the beach was hosting a party with a live band. The party only got louder as the night wore on, before finally ending sometime after 3 am. Amplified bass was not what we expected in usually peaceful Prince Rupert Bay. Three years ago when we were here this was no “Big Poppa’s.”
Sunday we did not leave the boat, except to swim. We mostly read books and did some light boat maintenance. A charter catamaran that came in after us decided to anchor right on top of our anchor (we snorkeled out to check) even though this is a big bay with lots of room and not that many boats. We asked them if they would move but they said that their windlass was broken. If I had a broken windlass, I would not have anchored where they did. They are still there today on top of our anchor. Martin told us we would sleep well on Sunday night since there were never parties on Sunday night as this was a religious island. However, there was a large Pentecostal Christian revival meeting with amplified sermons and song that went on until past 10 pm. The music was great but we lay in our bed not knowing how long this event would go on.
Today we did a big tour arranged though Martin. We joined Jim and Ruth Smith of Harpswell, Maine on a full day trip across northern Dominica guided by one of Martin’s associates. It was a rainy morning and, as we headed up into the rainforest, it just rained even harder. This is the dry season so the intensity and length of the rain showers were unusual. We made the short hike to the “Cold Souffriere,” a bubbling volcanic spring that was cold to the touch — in pouring rain. The volcanic mountains were filled with vegetation and fruit trees. There were trees of coffee, lime, orange, papaya, banana, plantain, cinnamon, bay, nutmeg, cocoa, mango, soursop, custard apple, guava, and more. Our tour guide was constantly stopping the van to run out and get us samples of every variety of fruit, spice, and medical plants, plus some huge bromelia flowers. We also bought 4 grapefruit for 30 cents. We then went to the Red Rocks on the northeast coast of the island which was spectacular, followed by lunch of fish and assorted starches, and to a beach where the river meets the ocean. We had planned on swimming in the river but the rain had swollen it so much that we decided to not get in above our ankles. The sun finally came out in the afternoon but the rain did not detract much from an altogether delightful trip.
We will stay here tomorrow (Tuesday) and try some snorkeling before leaving early Wednesday for Martinique. We hope to get to St. Pierre by Wednesday night and then to St. Anne by the end of the day Thursday.